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Sunday, November 23, 2008

How to Craft a Tablecloth

So what is craft really all about? The following report includes some fascinating information about craft info you can use, not just the old stuff they used to tell you.

Tablecloths add cover to your table, which can protect it from scratches, dents, etc. To craft a tablecloth you will need materials, finishing sizes, gauge structure, and directions. In view of the facts, we can present to you a few steps so that you can protect your table from damage.

You will need a gauge start at 5 inches diameter or 2 ¾ inches in diameter for the smaller motif clothes. You will need your finishing, which should be around 35 inches times 35. Purchase crocheting thread around 10, and 250 yards of spherical cream. Purchase the number seven crochet hook made of steel.

Once you purchase your materials, you can choose to make the small or large motif. Use your 5 inches in diameter to create 49 larger motifs. To start add eight chain stitches to meet with a slipstitch. Once you form your sphere move to round one and continue through to round eight, until you come to the smaller motif.

To begin stitch five chains to meet with your double crochet and the two chains you created. In your ring, double crochet and chain stitch two rows working up to eleven stitches/doubles and slipstitch into the third chain at the start of your first chain and leave three spaces as you work to round two. Now, add a slipstitch to start another space, chain one stitch, and three single crochets. Once you finish crocheting around the space, add a slipstitch to the first single and the 36 single crochets.

It seems like new information is discovered about something every day. And the topic of craft is no exception. Keep reading to get more fresh news about craft.

Moving on chain one stitch and work into the back loops and add single crochets in the other stitches. Finish with a slipstitch working it into the starting single crochet. Continue to round four. Chain four stitches into the first double and chain another stitch working it so that it blends with the back loops. The following stitch, add a double and one chain. Repeat your steps working around the slipstitches and to the third chain stitch created at the beginning of your chain. Move ahead to round five. Slipstitch so that it blends into the following space you will create and add a chain stitch working another two single crochets into the surrounding space. Slipstitch so that you meet your first single crochets and moves to the next round.

Now, chain four stitches so that it meets with your first triple crochet. Work the stitches into the back loops and triple crochet stitches so that it combines with the following stitches. You will need to create four and then chain five stitches, skip one, and triple the following five stitches. Repeat and work around your slipstitch at the crown of your starting chain. At this time, you should have grouped twelve of the five triples as you work to the crown.

Continue add a chain stitch it toward your back loops. Single crochet up to the five triple crochets you will create. In the five chain spaces thereafter you will need to have created four singles, chains, and four singles again before repeating your steps, working about the slipstitch the created at the beginning single. Continue to create your first motif, which is the larger part and then slipstitch so that you meet with the following two stitches. Chain stitch into the single crochet that starts the following two stitches and then chain five stitches working in your double, four chains, and another double crochet within the four chains at the loop. Chain two stitches and slipstitch to meet your loop that starts your motif, Chain two stitches within the identical four chain loops on the succeeding motif. Chain five stitches and skip up to five stitches on the beginning motif. Repeat your steps as you did when creating the initial motif. Continue up the ladder by creating your tablecloth. Now you are ready to make your smaller motif and complete your tablecloth.

To begin create 36 motifs and join them into the facing of the larger motif at the between lines. Chain eight stitches, add a slipstitch, and begin moving your starting ring to repeat rounds when creating your larger motif, i.e. rounds one through three. Next, chain stitch and work into the back loops. Create four single crochets, while single crocheting into the four, and add six chain stitches to join a single and the larger motif. Add another six chains and skip one, make a single and work it into the following single. Chain 4 and another single working until it blends into four chain loops not joined with the larger motif.

Chain four stitches and skip one single. Repeat your steps, working about the slipstitch that you created in your initial single. Now, complete your tablecloth by fastening it.

Don't limit yourself by refusing to learn the details about craft. The more you know, the easier it will be to focus on what's important.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

How to Sample your Squares in Craft

Crafts are fun experiences all of us can enjoy, providing we know how to sample our squares. Of course one must learn chain stitching, double crochet, double-triple crochet, Chevron stitching, clusters, cross double crochet stitch, crossbatch and more. To get started however, we can learn how to sample your squares.

How to sample your squares:
In craft terms, sample squares include a variety of stitches and crocheting patterns. Crafters’ use a variety of hooks, loops, stitches, etc, to complete particular projects, yet in this article you will work toward completing the “Evening News” Afghan. The gauge to complete your Afghan must reach 7 ½ inches over 54 squares.

How to sample squares:
To begin you will need to chain stitch 18 ounces of sport-weight, darker gray wool, and 14 ounces of the pearl shaded grays. In the first row single, crochet into the second chain stitch away from your hook. Chain one stitch, skip one chain, and single crochet into the following chain stitch. Chain two stitches, skip two chains, single crochet into the following chain, and repeat your steps starting across and to the finish. Now turn and start the second row.

At the second row start three chain stitches to the initial double crochet, and double crochet into the following single crochet. Work three doubles into each of your space and across to the finish adding a double crochet into the final single crochet and beginning chain stitch. Finish with your turn and close off the area. Next, move to row three. Combine your sport-weight machine washable wool, i.e. 11 ounces of medium colors of ash, or gray rather with your dark gray and pale-blue gray. Next, chain three stitches to start the double crochet, and double crochet into all, following two stitches; chain two stitches, skip one stitch, double crochet into the following two stitches, and across to the finish working a double crochet into the final stitch, turn, and close.

Moving to row, four add 28 ounces of light gray, i.e. the worsted-mohair weight and blends to your dark gray wool, medium ash, and pale-blue gray. Chain 2 stitches to start your half-double crochet, skip one double, and half double beginning with the following two double crochets. Next, keep each of your loops on the hook, chain stitch, and intersperse your hook into the following stitch, followed by pulling up your loop a few times, and chain stitching through the finished nine loops. (See Puff Stitching) Puff stitch into your following space and chain one stitch. Repeat your steps starting across, and to the finish working a half double crochet into the final double, turn, and close tightly.

Continue to row five by adding 28 ounces of dark alpaca gray to your yarn. Chain 3 stitches into your starting double crochet. Double crochet into the crown of your following puff stitch and puff stitch yet another into the following half double crochet, repeating the steps across, and to the finish, working in a double crochet into the following half double, add a two chain stitches, another double crochet into the final stitch, turn, and close tightly.

Moving to row, six add your pale, blue-gray yarn and chain three stitches to start the double crochet. Double crochet your stitches across and to the finish, turn and close tightly.

In row, seven add the darker gray yarn and use the diagonal spike stitch to start the following stitch, skip one stitch, and repeat the steps across, to the finish and add a double crochet to the last double, turn, and close tightly. Continue rows 8-18 to finish your steps.

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

How to Stitch Quilt Borders

We started the borders by adding blocks to complete the range of your borders on the sides of your material. We calculated the dimensions of slashing, as well as the size of your blocks. If you haven’t done so, use the example as followed to measure your blocks. Example: Three blocks appraising the 10-inch square, in addition to the four, terrazzo at one inch width, which adds to 34 inches?

How to create borders:
Once you finish your dimensions, insert ¼-inch seam and leave space to each side of your textile. The side borders should measure up to 10 x 34, i.e. width and length. The finishing measurement is factored into the ¼-inch seams you inserted. You will need to take up the spaces or seams left (later) to complete your borders. Once you insert ¼ inch you will have created 10 ½ x 34 1/2, which is the inches you will use to cut to fit the borders along the side. Use the same dimensions to cut at least two borders. The borders will cover each side of your fabric. Now measure the lower and upper borders. Add your blocks together to achieve your size. Follow the same method as outlined in the example above. Once you achieve your dimensions finish the width on one side of your borders. You should have counted 10 x 43, width and length unless you are quilting a larger or smaller quilt.

Next, insert another ¼ inch to your seams and leave space to each side. Refer to your measurements 10 x 43.

You will need to cut from the borders to achieve 10 ½ x 43 ½ inch to fit the edges at the top and bottom of your fabric.

You are creating a framed quilt so to speak. You may need to trim your borders to fit.

How to trim borders:
Starting at the crown of your quilt and working down to the middle, measure your quilt. You wan the length dimensions. If your dimensions are 30 ½ inches, thus round it off to the nearest tenth, i.e. 30 to complete your calculations: You will need to insert ¼ inch into the seams and make room for your sides. Next, use measuring tape, or a ruler to measure your quilt. Measure from the alongside and factor in the dimensions of your borders. Now insert the ¼-inch seams to the sides.

Once you finish your borders, you will need to start stitching after your prep the strips of your borders. Start by folding your strips. You will need to fold them in half and search for the middle, then press until your borders crease. You can pin to mark. Now find the middle of your sides by performing the same action as you did above. Mark again, and then start stitching your quilt. The center should be aligned. The right sides should come together, as well the crown should center. You will need craft pins to hold your ends in tact.

Along the length, start stitching your borders. You will need to work the fabric as you stitch to keep it in tact. If you are sewing on a machine, you can place the excess over your machine parts, which accept the input of your fabric (Feeder dog) to align. Hold back the shorter top layer and begin stitching slowly. The feeder will work the layers through.

You can pull the layers at the top through to slow the excess while allowing your feeder to pull the layer at the lower end through. Now connect your borders, by stitching it to your quilt. Insert the side of your fabric and allow your feeder to pull back the layers at the top. Press out your borders and leave a seam to work through the fabric border.

How to Zigzag Lozenge Stitch in Craft

The zigzag stitch is a common stitch expert cricketers’ use to create Afghans and more. The steps are relatively easy and must be learned to finish the “Evening News” Afghan, or other patterns of Afghans. After you finish your chain, bobble, Chevron, cluster, cross double, crossbatch, V-stitch, etc, you will need to zigzag your lozenge stitches. To get started we encourage you to read the steps below.

How to Zig your Zag to create the lozenge stitch:
To start the zigzag lozenge stitching you will need a base. The base is factored by multiples of two, plus one. In the first row, starting on the left side, chain two stitches to start your half-double crochet. Half double in the following stitch and skip one stitch including a half double, chain, and another half double in the following stitch. Repeat the steps starting with the final stitches skip one stitch and work two half doubles in your final stitch, then turn.

How to half double stitch:
Chain stitch and then intersperse your hook so that it goes into the second chain stitch and away from your hook. Chain stitch again and draw up your yarn bringing it through your finished chain and three loops on your crochet hook. Chain stitch again and draw up your yarn bringing it through each of the three finished loops on the hook, and the finish, working a half-double stitch into your pattern.

In the second row, continue to zigzag on the right side. Chain stitch 3 times to complete the start double crochet. Double crochet your first stitch and chain one time, and double crochet three clusters in the following space. Repeat your steps starting across, and to the finish working through the final space, adding one chain, two double crochets in clusters and at the crown of your turning chain, and then turn.

Moving to row three, chain stitch twice for your first half double. Skip the starting stitch and half double, one chain, and another half double followed by space and repeat your steps across, and to the finish, completing with a half double in your crown section of the turning chain, and then turn.

Adding Zigzag to Row 4:
Row 4 you will chain stitch three times for your first double, skip the initial stitch and cluster three doubles in the following space. Chain another stitch across, and to the final working a double crochet into the crown of your turning chain, and then turn. Moving to row, five add two chain stitches to the first half double. Half double another stitch into the first stitch, half-double, first chain, half double, and into the following space. Repeat your steps across, and to the finish working two, half doubles into the crown of your turning chain, and then turn. Complete your steps by repeating the second through five rows.

You have completed the zigzag lozenge stitching steps. Now you can move to the sample squares, which sums up eighteen rows. Once you complete the steps, you can move onto the borders, and finally finishing your Afghan. Once you finish however, you will need to edge the pattern to finally finishing your Afghan.

Remember when you design an Afghan, particularly the Evening News; you will need to work through a seven ½-inch gauge. When you start your pattern, keep texture and colors in mind. We encourage you to visit the Internet to learn more about the Evening News Afghan and the patterns available to you. In the period in-between, we can continue learning how to sample your squares.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

The Craft in Blocks and Borders

Once you select your patterns, blocks, templates, etc, you will need to prepare your fabric. You will need to consider how to organize your blocks, once you gather the necessary amount needed to complete your project. You want to consider your borders as well.

You will need graph paper, since you will need to sketch in order to determine how many blocks you will need to complete your quilt. To get started you will also need to decide the size of quilt you want to create and then you can consider settings.

To set your blocks, or organize the blocks you can consider borders, sashing, and cornerstones. The diagonal settings are another style you can consider, as well as the straight set.

Sashing works in the same way as the straight sets, i.e. you merely block your settings against the other and in an organized line. After you will run horizontal and vertical lines, which makes up your 9-patch scheme. The blocks in this instance are interacting with the stitches in three lines and with only three blocks. Use the “block-to-block” steps as listed above to continue. To create a visual, think of a box, or frame with nine rows across and nine rows down in a framed grid. Now add star-shapes, creating nine stars in three rows across your grid. If you can visualize the grid, you can get an ideal how the slash and straight setting works.

Next, add narrow stripes at the corners and around your row of boxes. If you can visualize, you have created a grid of lattice and/or slash. The pattern is designed to enhance your quilts overall outcome, yet you can add different effects to achieve your ultimate design. You can create an ordinary quilt from this grid, or you can crisscross the framework by interwoven your open-mesh frame, crisscrossing the stripes until you form a pattern. Some crafters use geometric patterns to arrange points.

How to set diagonal patterns:
If you want to create a diagonal pattern, or set you will need to organize, and add your blocks, placing them diagonally across your fabric, and on the points. Work a 45-angle into the scheme and work at the side. “On point” is a crafters term to state that the set blocks are on the points.

In the middle of the diagonal set, you will need to create triangles to make up the middle section of your pattern. You will need large and small triangles, which the larger batch will make up the center, while the smaller batch will fit the corners. Slashing terrazzo or strips is optional as well.

In addition to the slashing, straight, or diagonal, you can also choose to vertical set, or else the strip set. Crafters refer to the strip set as “Strippy.” Forming the Strippy is easy. You merely place your blocks perpendicularly in narrow pieces and divide the other narrow pieces, or strips.

The medallion is another set you can consider when crafting quilts. You will need to create middle equidistant from the other points. Next, you will need to focus on the points in the middle and surround them with various styles of blocks, slashing, or borders.

Now create your borders. To start your borders add your blocks to achieve the dimension of your borders at the side. You will need to factor in the slashing measurements, as well as the blocks. Example: Three blocks measuring 10-inch square, plus four strips at one inch wide equals 34 inches. Once you finish add a quarter or ¼-inch seam and leave room to each side of your fabric. Now you can move to finish your borders.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

The Craft of Quilt Templates

How to make templates

Templates are patterns so to speak, only with templates you cut the materials you need from strong fabrics. Otherwise, if you were making patterns you would cut the templates from ordinary paper.

At what time you create templates, you are making your quilt making process easier. The surface patterns will flow consistently as well. You can use your created templates and trace along your patterns, instead of pinning graphing paper to your quilt material. You can purchase ready-made templates, however if you create your own you will save money. You can purchase transparent plastics at craft stores, or stores that carry supplies, such as craft, paper, pencils, etc. If you choose plastic, you will need to individually, trace your patterns. You will need allowance for your seams. After you create your patterns, cut your templates. The plastic templates are ideal for making larger quilts.

Straight grains make up woven textiles. The grain lines run comparably along the edges of the non-fraying edges in the materials. Across the “straight grain,” is another line known as the “cross grain.” Crafters use the term to define the lines, such as “Fabric on the grain.” You will need to eliminate the edges, by cutting it off.

The non-frayed edges are makes up the areas that have not been cut, especially around the label and the snug woven areas.

How to create basic templates:
Creating templates is as simple as tracing your footprints on paper. To create your templates you will need to choose plastic and/or paper. Once you make your choice you will need to trace your template to paper, add a few permitted seams, and then use adhesive to add your trace to a clip of hard copy, i.e. cardboard or the like and cutout your templates. Stop: before you cut your templates, first replicate copies and play with the patterns until you achieve your desired mark. Once you achieve your patterns add numbers and/or letters to mark your pattern. This will help you remember where each template goes. Next, you will cut your pattern parts out, using common scissors. Cut the outside areas only at the edges. You will need to create one template per piece to add to your quilt.

Next, trace your patterns, tracing the parts onto your plastic and/or paper. Space the parts once inch in all directions, and away from the other. Use a measuring device, such as a ruler to draw ¼-inch line at the outer outline. On your templates, create a dot. You want the dots to meet two seams per count. The dots are important to mark your stitching areas.

Next, use your direction of textile thread lines (Grain line) and convey the arrows you have created from your model parts and relocate it to your template. You have made basic templates; however, there is a variety to choose from.

Tip: You can invent templates using software installed on your computer.

In addition to the basic templates, you can make window templates. The templates are ideal for those want to pierce by hand. You can also make templates for pre-prepared designs. Window templates can assist the beginners, since you will have a marked line to follow through when you begin stitching. The windows are easy to make, yet you must follow the “hand piercing: rules to complete your patterns. You can also add templates to your window, which may include emblems such as roses, bouquets, etc. Regardless the window, basic, or other types of templates can lead up to a block/border pattern, rather a fashionable quilt.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

The Crafts in Patching your Quilt

Patches can make up a fashionable, yet old-style quilt that will last for a long time to come. To create patchwork you will need fabric. You merely cut the pieces of your fabric to form patches and design, stitching in simple numerical lines. If you are creating the traditional patchwork, you will need fabrics, including lengthy stripes, squares, curved shapes, and rectangles. You can leave out the shapes that curve if you don’t want to go through the steps of creating a complex quilt.

Crafters often use patches to create quilts with many parts, such as the quilts that resemble the Picasso arts, or the basic quilts. Once you gather your patches, you will need to form blocks of your fabric. The blocks in crafter terms include the “corn and beans,” motifs, “turkey tracks, maple leaf,” and so on. One of the more attractive quilts is the “Robbing Peter to Pay Paul” blocks. Regardless, you will need blocks to finish your quilt.

To start you will need to select your block scheme. You have the choice of the 4-patch scheme, or the 9-patch. The patch block schemes make up grids, which fill in various simple lines in numbers and shapes. The 4-patch is one of the common patterns used to make traditional quilts. The 9-patch is also used, yet other styles are made up on different geometric grids.

The 4-patch:
The 4-patch is 4-squares factored into a numerical grid. For instance, you can picture a box, draw a cross inside, and count 1-4 to achieve the 4-block scheme. To continue to the 4-patch scheme you would need to add squares, stripes, etc.

The overall notion behind the 4-patch scheme is that you can use a variety of patches to create a multi-color quilt, yet you must lay out your block foundation first.

Now if you want to use the 9-patch scheme you would create nine squares in your grid and either leave them together or break them into parts. Still, you must leave the 9-patch structure.

For instance, if you were to take a piece of craft paper, rather graphing paper and draw per inch, four squares, eight squares, and then another ten, you would have your foundation to start your patchwork. To make up your designs however, you would need to add shapes to your grids.

Once you design your craft on graphing paper, you can create a full-size block. You will need to cut your patches, as well as create templates however before you can start your quilt.

To start your quilt you will need to consider the style again. Do you want the 12, 14, 16, 18, or larger blocks? If you are new to making quilts, you may want to start with the lower block inches. However, you will need to learn how to make borders to complete the quilt.

Once you decide you will need to consider your schemes. If you are working the 4-patch scheme on blocks, around 4 inches then you will need to cut your patches 2 inches in squares. The higher the scheme, the more patch inch squares you would need. For instance, if you want to create a 12-block scheme, you would need twelve patches and cut in six-inch squares.

On the other hand, if you were using the 9-patch scheme, choosing the 12-inch blocks then you would need to cut your patches into 4-inch squares.

Now you can move to create your templates. Templates in crafter terms are patterns, which are cut from strong fabrics, or materials. You need the templates to create an easy squared quilt, otherwise prepare to battle.

Saturday, November 8, 2008

How to Craft Camille Outfit

How to choose materials

Do you have Camille? Would you like to create an outfit for her, yet you have no clue where to start? If you answered yes then continue reading, since we are going to design Camille a fashionable suit.

To start you will need materials. You will need 40 inches of pink plain-woven, fine fabric made of linen and/or cotton. The fabric is needed to make Camille’s loose fitting pants that gather at the ankle, as well as her underskirt. Purchase 2 ¼ yards of soft lightweight, fabric with small prints and made up of wool. The material is used to create Camille’s cape and her dress. You will need 28 inches of material for the cape, such as stiff shining, silk lining. (Taffetas) Purchase 26-inches of entredeux and 6 ½ yards of brown lace edging. You will need some thin lace edges, (30 inches-2/5 inches) and matching poly-cotton DMC-4442 thread. The thread will match your plain-woven fabric, which you will need DMC-4446 (light brown) to coordinate with your soft, lightweight, pink fabric. To make a rose, purchase 3 ¼ yards of ribbon. You will need ¼-inch buttons, one/8 inch level elastic, and 3 ¼ yards of silky spherical cord to finish your rose.

Once you gather your materials, you will need to cut a fold at the front region of the bodice, and cut another two at the back. Next, cut the fold of the skirt front and two at the back. Cut two pantaloons, i.e. the wide pants that gather at the ankle. Once you cut out your patterns use the 50-point pale brown DMC cotton broder to stitch your lace.

Now that you have your materials, you can design Camille an outfit. For those who are not familiar with Camille we can briefly describe the doll in case you want to purchase her and create a dress later.

Camille is a gorgeous doll, which stands around 25 inches tall. Camille includes the collection edition, regency or the Victorian series. Jennifer Esteban is the original creator of Camille. Camille wears collected sleeves and folded skirt, as well as a taffeta cape. Camille also wears batiste underwear, which the lace is pale brown. The pantaloon and skirt extending from the petticoat is also laced with pale brown lace.

To make Camille’s dress you will need to start with her pants, or pantaloon. Once you complete the pantaloons, you can move to the undergarments. We can get started now on the project, yet you must find information to help you complete. Unfortunately, a single article cannot produce the length required to make up a complete outfit.

How to make Camille’s Pantaloons:
At the over-locker, begin French stitching the seams, collecting them at the back and front. Press and then turn the seams under the cover on your folded line. Press the garment again and create a minute size hem at the cover. Stitch a straight line at the cover. You want to leave space to thread from side to side your elastic. Around the edges of your crown, stitch in a straight line in the direction of your cover.

Now you can use starch, spray your fabric, and press once you finish. Cut two, 7 ½ inches length of lace and stitch a row at the edge of the legs near the bottom of the pantaloons. On the right area, press your lace so that it folds back. Perform a crisscross stitching pattern over the crown of your lace. Your stitches should entwine with both the lace and fabric. Near the crisscrossing stitches, cut the extras. Next, trim two, 7 ½ inches of your entredeux. Use your starch, spray, and then press. You will need to trim the ends that extend to the entredeux and the edges of your lace where it crisscrosses, meeting the other, and connecting it. Press and you can move to connect the seams of the legs to the crotch. Align and gather the legs and ankles by threading ribbon so that it goes through the entredeux.

How to Craft an Afghan

You will need a 40 inch by 60-inch material to finish your Afghan. Once you have the finish you can start building your materials.

How to choose materials:
It’s up to you what type of Afghan you want to create, however in this article I will show you a few steps in my the “Ivy League.” You want to select deep, vivid colors. Ultimately, you can select soft fabrics. You will need wool, preferably the heavy-duty. Purchase 45 ounces of aqua, red, etc, in a variety of colors. Choose 22 ounces of red, light green; dark greens, forest green, etc, and blue. Choose 28 ounces of red and navy blue in a variety of colors. You will need to purchase a hook, preferably the “K” crocheting hook. The gauge is around 6 ½ squares, which you can purchase a hook that matches this gauge also.

How to square:
Use a variety of colored yarns in succession per square. If you want to shift colors, it is best to avoid chain stitching at the end of your lines. Start turning your work until you connect with the colors, chain stitch I row and work your line in accordance.

To chain stitch, start with placing one slip knot over your crochet hook. Your hands should be prepared to work, which includes the thumb and middle left finger. Hold the yarn at the end and then wrap up and again over your crochet hook. You should be crocheting at the front of the back and to the front. Learn more about “Yarn over Yo.”

When you start you, Afghan you will need to square, row, row, border, assembly, border, etc. When you start squares, create 54 squares on a chain two stitch. Move to row. To row one work, you will need three single crochets in your second chain stitch and away from your hook on another single chain turn.

Move to your second row. Work two single crochets in your first single crochet and move to the following single crochet and the second, single crochet in the last single. Continue with five stitches and chain another single turn.

In your third row work two single crochets in your first single, continue singles within the following three singles, adding two more singles to your last single, and then chain another turn.

Moving to the fourth row, work two singles in your first single and then single crochet an even row to the last single. Work another two singles to the last and chain one turn.

Next row, repeat by adding four rows and after you reach rows eleven up to twenty-three begin your stitches across the material.

Continuing, create a loop in all of your first two singles. Use the “Yarn over Yo” method and move through all three of your loops on the crochet hook, which brings you to one single crochet and the decreasing phase. Next, single crochet two even stitches to decrease your last two singles and churn one turn. Repeat the steps on the twelve rows, yet only stitch three single crochet remains.

On your last row create a loop in each of your preceding three singles and start the “Yarn over Yo” method to continue through each loops on your crochet hook and then close.

Now you will start border rounds. Gather your greens, blue, and reds with a slipstitch in your corners. Do another three singles in the corner and another single to the following corner making sure the singles are even. Repeat the steps from about, and slip stitch toward the first single crochet.

On your second and third rounds, slip stitch toward the middle stitch of your corner, and repeat the round once, and close after your finish the third round.

Now you are ready to assemble. You should have a six square Afghan created, which is wide and has another 9 squares lengthwise. You want to oversew stitch (Whipstitch) the square togs and run ALL crosswise stripes so that they move in the same course. Now, border another round. Gather your yarn with another slipknot at the corner, and single crochet three in the corner, single crocheting another in the following corner, while making sure it is even. Repeat, stitching around and slip knot to reach the first single. Round two includes the slipknot to the middle single crochet of your corner, repeat round one, and close.

Friday, November 7, 2008

How to make porcelain doll dresses

Porcelain dolls, China dolls, etc, are made up of pottery and/or ceramic. The dolls are small, medium, and sometimes long. The twirps, Mellette, or youthful dolls may benefit from hailspot dresses, apron, shoes, socks, and so on. You can purchase socks and shoes at craft shops, otherwise you can hand knit the items for her.

You will need materials to get started. Materials should include 10 inches of hailspot patterns or fabric, which you will use to make underwear and the dress. Add 6 inches of white plain-woven fabric, or batiste to make your apron. The fabric should be made of fine, soft and plain woven-fabrics, such as linen, cotton, etc. add 40 inches and another 3/8 inches of narrowed edge lace to make your underwear, apron, and dress. You will also need light, DMC thread made of poly-cotton. Embroidery DMC thread should be light also to use on your sewing machine. (If applicable) Helmar is a fabric spray that stabilizes the material. You will need this also. You can find other brands at craft stores.

Purchase 818 embroidery threads, such as pink. You will need green also. (524) The thread will be used to make your bonnet and apron. You will need studs and/or buttons as well. Purchase the OOO types, as well as the “OOO studs” to complete your apron.

Once you gather your materials, you will need an acting technique, which includes patterns that you will cut. The patterns should include 2-underwear, front upper section of the dress on folds, or bodice. You will need a pattern to create the back region of the bodice on folds as well. In addition, add two sleeves, and the fold of your dress kilt.

How to design underwear:
To start, crisscross the lace attaching it to the legs. Pull the right face or sides of your fabric together and begin stitching at the front core and back center so that the seams come together. The untreated edges of the crown should crisscross, turning over a ¼ inch to achieve the covering. Sew in place and leave an aperture to the thread expandable via the covering, or casing. Now bring together your seams at the crotch and add fabric glue to the crotch ends, or seams of your thread. You can cut now. Crisscross and begin stitching over the expandable hat and about the interior of the doll legs at ½ inch from the edges of your fabric.

Continue after stitching your expandable fabric, continuing to pull up the fitted legs. Your expandable casing should easily detach from the crisscrossed region. Now you can lock up your expandable and cut to fit. Do the same on the other leg. Next, cut your expandable so that it fits the waistline, and sew at the crown of your underwear and lock it.

Now you are ready to make your dress. To start you want to link the line of stitching at the shoulder and the bodice at the front and extend to the bodice at the back region. At the fold lines, press the middle of the back. Now you can measure the edges of the neck, including the neckline at the front and the back center and so on. Now you can cut your narrowed edges of lace to fit your doll after doubling your measurements achieved.

Next, pull your thread up to meet the top of your lace and gather it so that it fits the neck and the back centers. The ends should fold before you doppelganger your lace and begin stitching the lace about the neck on the seam lines. Keep the opposite free. The right facing side should be brought up to bodice on the right and the seams at the shoulder should match. Start sewing near the neckline and then stitch the row prior, starting at the middle back. Continue to the around the doll to the middle back. Next, cut about the neckline, turn it so that it angles at the right facing outward, and then press your garment.

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Time in a Capsule Scrapbooks and Craft

How to create a time capsule

Scrapbooks are fun and tell a story about the characters preserved in its content. Scrapbooks can include photos, journals, letters, report cards, certificates, stories, books, handprints, footprints, college papers and more.

Each detail that goes in your scrapbook will leave you a lasting memory. When you create the time capsule scrapbooks, you invent seals, history, and preserve time as a whole. Time capsules can include photographs, clothes, hand/feet prints, CDs, names, weight, height, and more. For instance, you can make up a scrapbook that records your baby’s first step and up until this very moment. You can add a journal, photos, prints, etc to set off your design.

How to start your time capsule:
You will need a container to seal your items. You will pictures and members of your family and friends along with the items they want to add to your scrapbook. Make a lit that includes your items, photos, family names, etc. Once you collect your details, close your container, label it, and add the date you started. Include the date you intend to begin your scrapbook.

If you have newspaper clippings including recorded events, add them to your scrapbook. You can trace your children’s feet, hands, etc, and add them to your scrapbook as well. You may want to craft a favorite page so that everyone knows your children’s, yours, spouse, or friends’ particular items of interest.

If you have parts of clothing that brings up memories, add them to your scrapbook. CDs make up great memories in scrapbooks as well, especially if the dates are marked. Photos will tell a story about you, your family, friends, etc. Try to organize the photos so that the storybook comes together.

If you have goals set, you may want to add them to your scrapbook as well. The memos will serve as a reminder.

Graduation articles will make a good time capsule for your scrapbook. You can add photos, graduation gown articles and more. Don’t forget to add dates, names, locations, etc so that you have something to remember for a long time to come.

If you wrote a short story, you may want to add it to your time capsule. I had started writing short stories when I was thirteen and would give anything if I would have preserved the copies in my own time capsule. The success we achieve is something to remember for a lifetime, therefore adding stories is giving you a moment to remember.

Some people add locks of hair to their scrapbook. The hair is a reminder of the person they love. In addition, the hair represents a special moment in history.

If you received a special rose from a loved one, or friend you may want to add the flower to your scrapbook. You will need a dried, pressed flower and glue to your page. Add the flower to bring your theme come together. That is if you create a garden page; add the flower in this section. Better yet, if you created a page of your loved one, friend, especially the one that gave you the flower, add it to this section.

If someone in your home is an artist, perhaps you can make a special page for this person. Use the arts drawn and mount them to a page in your scrapbook. Your friends and family will appreciate this special moment, since art says a thousand words.

In all you can add nearly anything you choose to your scrapbook and go back in time in your capsule as you choose. The main idea is using common sense when crafting your scrapbook so that you do not invent bulky pages.

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

How to Seam Allowances in Quilt Craft


As we mentioned in the previous works, you can learn a few helpful tips in stitching seams. In addition, you can learn tips in seam allowances, as well as appliqué. Appliqué is the progression of using fabric or pieces and sewing them onto fabric. You sow the shaped pieces of the fabric onto your groundwork to shape a pattern or design. The appliqué steps include the machine and hand sewn styles. In short, you can use the steps to work through hand-sewn quilts, or machine made. Don’t forget to learn more about needles, thimbles, thread, etc before you get started, so that you choose the best brands to complete your quilt.

You will need to stitch your pieces of fabric into the background. First, however you will need to prime the edges of your fabric pieces, or appliqué if you will. Turn the ¼-inch “seam allowance” under the appliqué and stitch so that it meets with your backdrop. If you want to create a quilt in less time, try the “fusible webbing appliqué” style.

The style of appliqué we are discussing now is the simple design. You have advantages with this strategy, since the seams and stitches will not show on the top of your quilt. The appliqué” will hang in the back of the quilt as well, which creates a stunning design.

The key to making the appliqué is to learning turning steps to bring your seam allowances under your garment. You can use templates to create your patterns. You will need to start by cutting your appliqué shape out and shaping it side by side the lines you have marked. If you haven’t learn how to cut and mark visit your library, or go online to find helpful tips. You will need to cut ¼ inch per shape. If you template has a solid row at the outer lines and a dash within the lines, then you are working in harmony with your template and quilt.

Once you cut, the shapes turn the seam allowance under. You can do this by turning and basting, using glue stick, or freezing your paper. If your seam allowances are not flat at the curves, turn the seams in and around the curvatures to the upturned points.

Once you finish turn the seams or shapes at the corner, turning it up so that it meets the first point. Turn your seam allowances up and you are finished. It doesn’t matter which side you turn the last seams up.

How to the turning and basting appliqué works:
This is one of the protracted tactics used in quilting. However, you can advance. You want to start by tracing your appliqué, cut it to shape, and work around the seam allowances, turning the seams to the left side. You may need to clip the upturned points and the curvatures. Use your hand to bast the folds. You will need needle and thread, pulling the thread through the needle and stitch 1/8 inch of your shape. Work your stitch to the folds at the edges. You will need to finish by stitching the background so that it meets your appliqué. Now, remove your thread and you are prepared to start the appliqué process.

Once you start the appliqué, you can move to the freezing paper style. This style makes room for easy quilting. The finishing touches will even and smooth out, making you are grand quilt.

Freezing paper in quilters’ term is “Freezer paper.” You know the type of paper you purchase at your local grocery, and use to store your meet in the freezer. You can also use other types of paper, such as the English.

Sunday, November 2, 2008

How to Craft Basket Flowers


We have walked through the steps of creating the May basket, now it is time to craft your flowers. We have added handles, basket, etc, to your quilt, which at this time you should have created six blocks to make your basket.

How to create flowers:
We are quilting flowers. On the left side of your fabric, you will have invented pink squares. You can trace your pattern to start your project. Trace at least one flower (Choice), use your outside solid lines, and repeat your steps to create the foliage, or leaves. Use the variety of green patterns and use the yellow narrow pieces to create the center of your flower.

You can design roses if you like. Use a variety of greens, red, pink, white, etc, if you intend to create roses and petals. Along the lines, you have marked, cut the fabric strips sewn onto your fabric, the shaped patterns that form your design, cutting only near the lines. Use freezer paper and turn it over so that you reveal the side that does not have a shine. You want to create a starting line for the six centers of your flowers, and the flowers also. Once you mark the 12 parts, mark the leaves (12), marking them inside the dash lines. Now you are ready to cut your shapes.

You will need an iron and board. Use your hot press, or iron to press the flowers on your paper, pressing in the middle of your flowers on the left side and in the middle. You want the glossy paper turned in the direction of your fabric flower at this point. Do the same with the center of the flowers and foliage.

Next, collect your yellow filament/thread and tone it with the center of your flower. If the colors do not match, try another shade of yellow. Run lines of stitches into your cloth, which encloses the ring of the freezer paper. You want to congregate your material around this ring, so pull your filament up at the end. Now, tie your thread, press the ring, and use your starch bottle, spraying the region. Do the same for the center of your flowers.

Next, use your variety of green filaments that match your leaves and collect the allowances at the seam. (1/4 inch) Collect around the foliage and streamlines of stitches along your fabric, about the enclosed region of your ring that is designed on the freezer paper. You want to collect your textile about the ring. Pull your filament/thread up at the finish and tie it, pressing the ring. Again, spray with starch.

When you congregate your allowances at the flower seams, snip the inner points of the flower corolla/petals where the flower collectively forms a ring. You will need to collect your thread that matches the color of your petals, such as pink. Just as you collected the edges of your leaves, do the same for your corollas. Once you finish running stitch lines in your fabric, which you have enclosed freezer paper about the ring, you will need to gather your material about the ring. Next, pull your strands of thread up at the finish. Next, bind your filament and then press the ring. Press, and spray the region with fabric starch. Now seam your allowances, i.e. snip the central points of the leaves, flower center, etc where the flower collectively forms a ring. Press and starch to complete your crafting task:

Now you are ready to assemble the top of your quilt. After you assemble, you can move to finish your craft.